Bibi Graetz Testamatta Toscana Bianco 2022

James Suckling

Lots of lemon curd, honeysuckle, white peach, white stone and other flowers. Some blanched almonds and sea breeze underneath it all. Hints of algae, too. Full-bodied and layered with distinctive flavors of dried lemons and apples. Oyster shells. Some phenolics that occur due to the wind during the growing season.

Owen Bargreen

This ‘Testamatta Bianco’ has now been made since 2016 as this site utilizes old vine Ansonica which is sourced from the remote Giglio Island. Vines up to 100 years of age for this wine are set on steep granite slopes at the Serrone Vineyard which is located in the south-eastern portion of the island. This incredibly scenic spot is facing the ocean at an altitude that ranges from 60 to 150 meters. The nose is wonderfully salty and savory. Salted peach and pear notes combine with bright honeysuckle and suggestions of wet stone all mark the nose. The palate is seamless and elegant with lovely weight and beautiful length. This is a totally stunning wine that is drinking beautifully now at the two year mark. Enjoy this beauty now and over the next ten plus years. Drink 2023-2033- 95

Decanter

Invigorating scents on the nose with this 100% Ansonica, expressive and so fragrant with jasmine, dried herbs, honeysuckle, dried apricot and lemon curd. Supple yet concentrated, full bodied on the palate with a core of dried, fresh and stone fruit and a steely minerality underpinned by soft but fresh acidity. A serious, gourmet wine, with structure but remains focussed and direct from start to finish. The texture is sleek but the flavours expand horizontally around gripping the cheeks and giving a mouthwatering effect. Finishes with an appealing salty, minty, cooling bitterness that lingers. Quietly captivating with more nuance to come after a few more years in the bottle.

Jane Anson, Inside Bordeaux

As is often the case with Testamatta compared to Colore, you can expect a bigger immediate hit with this white compared to its sibling, with jasmine and honeysuckle on the aromatics, leading to white gooseberries and gentle citrus, reflecting the fresh acidities that draw out the finish. Expressive and full-bodied, with waves of flavour, an unusual white from the Ansonica grape. Great quality, engaging, and I recommend giving this a bit of time in a carafe, because it has layers and depths that reward patience.

Vivino

Houlberg

6 Thumbs Up. Dejlig let, luftig og næsten svævende aroma ... meget blid med nogle nærmest burgundiske og kalkagtige noter, hvor sten og mineraler er godt fremme og skaber en rank vin, selvom man også fornemmer et diskret fagpræg. Det er saltvand på næsetippen i gåtur langs havet, umodne abrikoser, lidt fersken, æbletærte, slukket lejrbål, regnjakke samt honning, let vanilje, let lakridskonfekt og fennikel. Det er sgu en vild tiltrækkende aroma. I munden er det en ren afbalanceret vin, som hele tiden holder sig i midten af vejen uden at falde i grøftekanter. Der er syltede citroner, lemon, grønne æbler samt masser af røget og saltet mineralitet, kalk, skolekridt samt en fin, parfumeret og letbitter syre, som både virker alvorlig, legesyg og præcis. Lækkerheder ... så 96 point. Forhandles af Supervin, hvor en flaske koster 999,95 kr., mens prisen ved køb af 6 flasker er 699,95 kr.

Robert Parker

This wine is really quite terrific, and with 6,500 bottles made, it is easier to find (and more affordable) than Bibi Graetz's new single-vineyard expression of Ansonica, Colore Bianco. The 2018 Testamatta Bianco Isola del Giglio sees fruit blended from three bigger vineyard sites on Giglio Island and some smaller ones as well (Vigneto del Corvo, Scopeto, Ulivello, Radice and Le Grotte). In contrast to the Colore Bianco that revealed more consistency, the two bottles I sampled of this wine (one opened in the morning and one in the afternoon) showed very different results between them. The morning bottle was more fleshy and ample, while the just-opened bottle offered very linear notes of citrus, apple and white peach. Some of the grapes are harvested early, in order to maintain that total acidity, and used as a blending agent with the rest of the wine. Green harvesting is not practiced here, as each vine is left on its own to ripen. Bibi Graetz tells me that the 2018 vintage was much easier and gave more satisfaction compared to the difficult 2017 growing season. Of course, like any white wine from the Tuscan Coast, you get a distinctive layer of sea salt on the close—in this case, mixed in with some freshly milled white pepper.

Mad og Monopolet

Vinen er lavet på 100 % Ansonica, som er en italiensk hvidvinsdrue, der primært findes på det vestlige Sicilien og også bruges i Marsala. Druen fungerer dog også absolut fantastisk i Toscana, som Bibi Gaetz tydeligt demonstrerer her. I næsen har den en utrolig flot bouquet af modne æbler, saftige pærer, sødmefuld ananas, citrus og et hint af hav. I munden er den livlig og har en skøn friskhed kombineret med masser af fylde - helt fantastisk hvidvin.

James Suckling

This is another fantastic white and continues to be one of the best from Tuscany. It’s so perfumed with sliced apples, pears and kiwis, as well as cream, hot stone and sea. Granite. Full-bodied yet energetic and layered with red-wine sensibility. Extremely long finish. Great wine.

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