Patrice Moreux Corty Artisan Pouilly-Fumé Caillottes 2023

Jancis Robinson

This wine draws such a fast, firm, focused line of flavour from start to finish that you could cut a ruler from it. Unbending until it hits the heart line and then it yields to this incredible sense of blossoming in the mouth, like a bouquet of rose buds unfurling into orange, gold and pink fullness and perfume. It's stunning. All stones and green sea glass and olive brine and sorrel ... and then whoosh, all oranges and kumquats and mirabelles and strawberries. White peach, golden pears. The fruit just keeps coming and coming in a slow glory of unfurling. The texture of damask. Like the other Moreux Pouilly-Fumés, the finish is spicy, but here the spice is sweeter; cinnamon, nutmeg and even a trace of caramel right at the very end. Incredibly long. These Corty wines are pretty special.

James Suckling

A delicate and elegant Pouilly-Fume with a well-structured, medium-bodied palate. In the long finish this slowly turns drier, and some may find the final impression slightly austere, but for me this is a positive part of the wine’s personality. Drink or hold.

Decanter

This complex wine is a world away from many fruit-forward New World Sauvignon Blancs. It has an incredible sense of place, with smoky, flinty, mineral character from the limestone-rich soils. Restrained and textural, it's serious and food-friendly, and would be a perfect match for shellfish or smoked fish.

Robert Parker

For the first time aged in a 60-hectoliter foudre, the 2021 Pouilly-Fumé Caillottes Corty Artisan opens with an intense, dense and mineral bouquet that indicates remarkable complexity and depth. Fresh and elegant on the palate, this is a full-bodied, textured and tensioned Pouilly with fine tannins and saline acidity, a complex that carries this intense and mouth-filling wine from stony limestone soils to a long and aromatic yet most of all structured, saline and sustainable finish. Excellent indeed. The 250-year-old French oak is palatable only after you taste the enormously pure Silex, but it gives the wine more texture and mouthfeel. 13% stated alcohol. Natural cork. Tasted in March 2023.