Weingut Ziereisen Jaspis 10-4 Gutedel 2020

Winewherever, Rasmus Christensen

Knivskarp minimalisme. Med kun 10,4 % alkohol kommer denne vin buldrende som kraftigt skarpt lyn i den tunge sommerluft. En reduktion præget duft af flintesten, italiensk fennikel salat og Pernod med isterninger. Den har en prikkende, næsten tangerende til gnistrende syre, der skaber en mineralsk følelse i munden. Man sidder tilbage med en smag af hybenroser, krydrede umoden mango og saltsyltede citroner, og smagen vil simpelthen ikke stoppe med at udvikle sig i munden. Det her er en fuldstændig fortryllende vin, der taler lige til mit hjerte.
100P

René Langdahl

Mine ydlingsvine: Jeg har smagt den før – anbefalet tidligere årgange, men her er 2020 og det er den vildeste af dem alle. En helt utrolig vin, som ophæver al normalitet. Hvordan kan en vin på 10,5 % være så intens? Lad mig starte med næsen på denne gutedel fra tætbeplantede stokke i den varmeste del af Baden. Hvid vermouth, filet af bagt selleri, saltbagte grønsager, parmesan, stensalt, nedkogt rodfrugtjuice, kombucha med pære og citronskræl, mens mundfornemmelsen af dobbelt: Lethed og ild, mundbrand og munddans. Ingen olie på vandene, kun nærmest florafpillet mundfornemmelse a la fino sherry, trodsig viskositet, læder og ruskindsfornemmelse, saltet pære og metal og kalkvand i eftersmagen, som varer ved i evigheder. Du skal unde dig selv at smage det her. 879,95 kr. v/ 6 fl. | supervin.dk

René Langdahl

Robert Parker

Ziereisen's iconic 2020 Jaspis Gutedel Alte Reben 10⁴ exhibits a clear and fresh golden-yellow color and a deep, intense and flinty-mineral bouquet with ripe and concentrated fruit and popcorn aromas. Pure, fresh and immediately saline on the palate, with fine and refreshing mineral acidity and delicate tannin grip that will further integrate with aeration and sufficient bottle age, this is a complex but finessed and tensioned Chasselas with a long and intense finish. Just 10.5% stated alcohol. Exclusive natural cork stopper.

Jancis Robinson

Delicate smoky/fumey reduced beauty. White fruit and flowers. A complex maelstrom of aromas: herbs, peat, citrus, hay. Elegant, complex and shockingly graceful, with a deep, savoury, carrot-like sweetness. Edgy and silken; juicy and stony; grip and grace. Here live contrasts and contradictions with power arising from the empty space between the two poles. Beautiful balance transcends its youth. Simultaneous salty and sultry. If Gutedel is a blank slate, the story being told here is one I am eager to hear.

Falstaff

Fine smoke, quince, lime, pine branch, green mojo, apple, apricot. Amazing that drive, density and tension can be behind a delicate structure, never barren, underpinned by extract, finely proportioned softness and delicate density, long.

Gault Millau

…the almost unbelievable 2015 Jaspis is also the first with 100 points in this guide. Why this high rating? Quite simply because it is so incredibly great fun, especially when you include it in a line-up of the best wines from the most prestigious addresses on the Côte de Beaune. Chapeau!

Vinum

Best Wine of Germany - Vinum Top 100: In tastings, the wine achieved one hundred points - an incredible feat for a Gutedel! Rightly so: high density, mixture of concentration, power, delicacy and length. Slim as a crop, punchy like Liverpool under Klopp.

VV Wine

The nose is addictive, super deep, complex, you think top burgundy, pure minerality, lots of stone, ripe fruit, even tea, you want to immerse yourself. Firm and powerful on the palate, shows body and density and that with 12% alcohol, creamy and yet firm, dense but also elegant, a sensational balance of structure, fruit, saltiness and freshness that dances over the tongue, shows a lot of drinking flow and an almost endless length. This is in no way inferior to the largest Burgundians.

Falstaff

Slightly oxidative notes on the nose and the noblest possible finish. No fruit, no varietal style, dark wood, ripe minerality. Highly elegant on the palate, Burgundian, unique in Germany

René Langdahl

Urtete på speed, afsindig intensitet og samtidig er den forknyt og stenet, mut og modvillig, komplet kalkstenssaft, abrikosskaller, saltet citron, bitre blade, modigt fenolisk tryk uden nogen form for oxidativ orangevinstendens. Paradoksal vin, let som skyer, men smerter som en Kieslowski-film. Edeltraut og Hanspeter siger: ”giv den luft… MEGET luft!”

Robert Parker

Basket-pressed and vinified in 650-liter barrels for 22 months, the golden-yellow colored 2017 Jaspis Gutedel Alte Reben 10⁴ comes in with a moderate 12% alcohol and opens with a spectacular deep, intense and substantial yet pure and nuanced bouquet of crushed limestone rocks, herbs and ripe, concentrated but mineral-scented fruit. On the palate, this is a rich, elegant and fresh, silky-textured, refined, pure and enormously salty Chasselas with very fine chalk tannins and gorgeously intense yet, fine, elegant, ripe fruit. This is a spectacularly intertwined Chasselas, and planet wine can hardly offer any better, finer, more complex wine of this grape variety. Fresh, pure and salty on the stimulating, salty and grippy finish. Not as broad and expansive as the corresponding Pinot Gris but tensioned, fresh, refined and always worth a sip. Mind though, it is rare (despite 10,000 vines per hectare) and very expensive. Tasted from lot L 26 19 in July 2020.

Jancis Robinson

From 45-year-old vines, grapes hand-picked, spontaneous fermentation, aged for 22 months on its lees, unfiltered. RS 0.6 g/l. The 10 to the power of 4 is often called the world’s best Chasselas, and at €120 it’s certainly the most expensive. I fail to be original here, it’s been said many times, with its mineral exhibition of flinty and smoky aromas the Alte Reben would have you believe that you are much closer to the Côte de Beaune than the Markgräflerland. It would be an understatement to call the flavour concentrated, body and texture just pressed into serving as best they can a pure exercise in mineral expression. And what is even better (in my humble opinion) is that the temptation to put an extravagant mantle of oak around it has been steadfastly resisted. But salt and flint do not leave any grit between your teeth, and there’s even an allowance made to fruit with gentle notions of apricot and grapefruit. All that talk about terroir, occasionally it’s true.

Vivino

(170 ratings, set over alle årgange, 30/10 2024)