Ziereisen ST (Steinkrügle) Gutedel 2022

Robert Parker

The officially NV ST 22 is what should read as 2022 Gutedel Steingrüble, but that has been forbidden by apparently very bored wine inspectors from Baden, who seem to have considerable intellectual difficulties with Hanspeter Ziereisen's traditional style of handcrafted wines. The standards are also overwhelmingly high: the wines, including this one, are unfiltered, unfined and fermented without the addition of industrial yeasts, instead using natural ones, and aged on the lees for almost two years, even if the wines are "only" Gutedel (Chasselas) and have a reckless 10.5% alcohol volume. This one, from a plot on Jura limestone and loess that has always been called "Steingrüble" and lies 360 meters above sea level, has a cool, fresh bouquet that is more stony and savory than predominantly fruity, reminiscent of white pome fruit and subtle hints of pickled onions and lemongrass, as well as yeast, of course. On the palate, the wine is smooth, juicy, elegant, and light without being insubstantial. On the contrary, it has a long-lasting, structured finish with a characterful aftertaste of fresh citrus notes, chalk and fine acidity, as well as delicately crisp tannins. It has good, clear length that cleanses the palate. Screw cap. Tasted in October 2025.

René Langdahl

Edeltraut og Hanspeter Ziereisen i det allersydligste Baden i Efringen-Kirchen blot 8-10 km nord for Basel er områdets enfants terribles, mønsterbrydere, selvstændigt tænkende og antiautoritære ægtepar, som bare laver den ene troldmandsdrik efter den anden. Her gælder det gutedel på kun 10 % Fra gamle planter øverst i kalkstensskrænten Oelberg. Spontangæret most i store fudere efter ret hårdt pres, hvor Hanspeter vil have al stofligheden fra verdens mest mineralske druesort med over i vinen. 20 måneders bærmelagring giver bredde og ricottafornemmelse med diskret reduktion. Ægteparret lever i livsbalance – tænkte naturskånsomt og antimanipulatorisk længe før det blev mode. Gutedel/fendant/chasselas, kært barn har mange navne, kræver mindst en doktorgrad… eller erfaring med traditionelt fremstillede skindkontaktvine på ikke aromatiske druesorter for værdsættelse. Den kan være verdens mest kedelige og verdens mest gnistrende mineralitetsformidler. ST 21 er det sidste! Det dufter af kæmpestor chablis, men har mindre syre, assyrtiko, men uden varmen, smager bare som stenvin. Ubegribeligt, at 10 % kan fylde så meget og ramme smagsløgene med salt, kvædeskræl, mælkebøtteekstrakt, bordbombe, mens eftersmagen er skrællet som fino sherry, men helt uden de funky aromaer… og bliver hængende.

Houlberg

WAUW for pokker … det dufter sgu af stor hvid burgundisk vin, der virker let fadpumpet med en supermanagtig smørkåbe med brunet smør, vanilje, hasselnødder, dåsepærer, mango, papaya, kvæde samt pigeon- og cideræbler, knust og saltede sten, grus og ral … for pokker, hvor det dufter fremragende. I munden er der klart en mere saltet, læskende og maskulin frugt end hos fx hvide de burgundiske vine. Der er både abrikos, kvæde, cideræbler, saltede mandler, saftet æblemost, hyben og absolut helt oppe på den store klinge. Syren er varm, maskulin og alligevel med vild stor saftighed … 95 point. Forhandles af Supervin, hvor en flaske koster 289,95 kr., men kan fås til 199,95 kr. ved køb af 6 flasker.

Vinum

Reportage tasting - Winemaking legend Hanspeter Ziereisen | With air, light, yellow fruit, quince, pear, subtle and reductive. Noble structure, slight phenolics noticeable on the gums. Strongly mineral, no fruit, lives from its texture. Slightly piquant, salty sharpness in the mouth, yet incredibly light-footed, elegantly restrained right up to the finish.

Robert Parker

The 2020 Steinkrügle is another fascinating Chasselas from Hanspeter and Edeltraud Ziereisen that comes from 40+-year-old vines and was aged on the lees for about 20 months in traditional oak casks. The wine exhibits an intense golden-yellow color and a deep, pure, concentrated and intensely mineral bouquet with ripe, elegant fruit aromas intermingled with iodine notes of crushed stones and refreshing phenolic nuances. Dense, lush and elegant on the tropical-flavored palate, this is a fine and erotic Chasselas with a long, complex and stimulating saline finish. The acidity is fine and fresh and perfectly integrated with the phenolic structure and elegant texture of this youthful and age-worthy white from Germany's southern tip. It was bottled with 11% stated alcohol but with a density, intensity and complexity you can hardly measure. After the superb 2017, this is another over-performing Steinkrügle. Screw-cap closure. Tasted in November 2022.

Falstaff

Reductive notes, flint, smoke, yeast, lime zest, yellow apple, mirabelle plum, some quince. Slenderly built on the palate, soft in texture, juicy, ripe, elegant acidity. Ripe, finely layered phenolics, strong mineral imprint, also deep.

Wine Enthusiast

This is lovely, with lemongrass, yellow plum and Jonagold apple flavors seamlessly layered, offset with a quinine hint and carrying through a long, floral finish. A fine representation of the variety, it combining an ethereal feel with an alluring flavor profile.

The Wine Front